tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31097380883683201822024-03-12T22:21:39.095-07:00ElskeElskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-22824124175491356972012-08-28T17:15:00.001-07:002012-08-28T17:15:34.672-07:00Last Making<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been making lasts. Which is a cool and rewarding thing to do. A shoemaker just can't make a good pair of shoes without a good pair of lasts. I have made many lasts over the years. I do have a love of working with wood. And, so at times my shoe making shop is a wood working shop. Wood and leather have some characteristics that make them like cousins. Similar enough for it to make sense for a leather worker to be a wood worker. </div>
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Although I have many lasts already, I do have some pretty big gaps in my size stock. A shoemaker needs to have at least one pair of lasts for each size. So, the first stage in this project is to create a full set of lasts. These lasts are made from large pieces of dimensional doug fir. Some last makers will say that fir is too soft a material to use for this purpose. I have made lasts from Ash and Maple in the past. What I find is that given the proper maintenance and care fir lasts can live a long and useful life. The ease of working with fir to achieve the right shape allows for me to make a solid lasting last in a short amount of time. The overall savings of time and negligible difference in durability make it a wise choice and contributes to the efficiency of our handmade process.</div>
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So, large pieces of dimensional lumber are cut into blocks. Each block is about 13"X5"X4". I use some pretty simple geometry to identify several angles. These angles are used to cut lines with a miter saw. I cut four lines from the 'top' through to the 'bottom' of each block. I always leave a significant piece of the top and bottom flat so that they are parallel to each other for much of the shaping. This allows me to have a base from which to do geometry that maintains relativity to the other angles. Once the four lines have been cut from the top, measurements are made to determine where key features of the foot and last are to be placed. These important lines are ball, waist, and heel.<br />
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Using some relatively simple math, I find a few key ratios that have to do with widths and lengths. One of these ratios helps me to determine where the front of the ankle ends. From that point, I draw part of an ellipse that I then carve out. This arc defines the shape of the front of the shoe down to the toe. The fifth major cut is another arc that extends from middle of the heel to the waist of the foot. Once these five essential cuts have been made there is a fair amount of brute force shaping which I do with two of my favorite tools: The flexible draw knife and the spoke shave.<br />
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The spoke shave is an old tool that used to be used to shave down the wooden spokes of wagon wheels and chair legs. They are still an extremely useful tool.<br />
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The draw knife is not much different than the spoke shave outside of the fact that it is capable of removing a great deal of material very fast. This particular one is made of a flexible steel that allows some finesse in shaping.<br />
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Another key tool in this stage of the work is the Japanese Flush cut saw. It rapidly cuts through fir and gives nice straight cuts. </div>
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I will be editing and posting a time lapse film of me turning a block of fir into a last over the next few days. </div>
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Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-85224663392935565002012-08-28T16:35:00.006-07:002012-08-28T16:35:51.669-07:00More Forward Line OXford Pics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-29973712471244324922012-08-22T18:02:00.001-07:002012-08-22T18:02:41.117-07:00ChoicesOkay. Thank you all for being patient. I hit a few snags with photography equipment.<br />
Here are pictures of prototypes that represent the shoes you will receive in gratitude for your pledge. I have purchased a bunch of beautiful materials. It's been wonderful to sit in the studio and work with all of it. Right now I'm putting most of my effort into getting these images out for you. And, I'm carving lasts for the shoe sizes I don't have lasts for. My shoe shop turns into a wood shop for that process. I am excited to get the mess cleaned up and get back to shoemaking. I will post pictures and blog about the last making process soon.<br />
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The colors offered are white, natural leather, Chestnut Brown, grey, and black. I have included pictures of the colors either in the form of pictures of the leather itself or shoes made in the color. I do all of my own dying - except for white. The white is a beautiful English calf leather. It is not a bright white but a slightly off white. I think it is beautiful.<br />
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English Kip</div>
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Below is the standard Unisex Oxford with Grommets. This shoe can be ordered without grommets. The lace holes on these without grommets will be punched and reinforced (approximately 1/8" diameter. These can be ordered in any of the colors. You may choose a stitch color of white or black. You also have a variety of soles to choose from. All shoes come with leather soles that are stitched to the uppers. A protective rubber outsole covers most of the stitching which prolongs the life of the shoe. I prefer a thin subtle sole. Outsole options are : white chevron, black chevron, black thin micro-waffle, and white micro waffle. All are pictured below.</div>
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Standard Unisex Oxford with grommets in black.</div>
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Here we have the Female Forward Line Oxford in white. Available in all color options with choice of outsole texture.</div>
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Female Forward Line Oxford in English kip white.</div>
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Next, Unisex Futbol Boot. Available in all color options with choice of outsole. Pictured here with a wax finish.</div>
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Futbol boot in Waxy Black.</div>
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Female Oxford Line Boot. Available in all colors with choice of outsole.</div>
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Oxford Line Boot in Grey with white chevron outsole.</div>
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Bootie. Pictured here in dark green. Limited number available in this color. Otherwise available in all color options. Lined with english kip. Italian leather sole with recessed stitch.</div>
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Bootie in green.</div>
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Ballet flat. Available in all color options. Sole is soft leather stitched to upper. Outsole is thin micro-waffle (white or black.)</div>
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Ballet Flat in white.</div>
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All shoes are lovingly conditioned with Bentley's original Liquid Glycerine. I hand finish the leather. The product is supple beautiful leather with beautiful character. Carnauba creme and saddle laquer are also used to create a protective and durable finish. All leather shoes come out of the box a little stiff. I put a lot of effort into working with the leather to give my shoes a wearable and forgiving feeling right out of the box. All sole material is treated to be weather proof. The outsoles provide an added level of protection. The life expectancy of your shoe is closely tied to the protection of the sole. Replacing the outsole when it wears through will cost very little compared to the replacement of the leather (stitched sole.) Regardless, my shoes are meant to be loved and lived in. Below are images of the threads, sole material, and leather. Please take some time to make your choices. As well, I am happy to make any shoe here for any size and sex of foot. My gender assignments are suggestions. Thank you all.</div>
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<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-47134587991542126682012-08-17T12:00:00.002-07:002012-08-17T12:00:29.849-07:00Beginning<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I spent most of the week gathering materials. I can't to turn it all into shoes. I spent yesterday cutting giant pieces of fir down to blocks that I will form into lasts (shoe forms.) Today I will be finishing prototypes and dye samples. <br />
I've been able to meet up with a few of you this week too. I'm so grateful to everyone for their support. Next week will be a busy one with lots of pictures and posting. Everyone be well. More soon.Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-45207276558648023552012-08-10T17:08:00.001-07:002012-08-10T17:08:19.289-07:00Victory<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzzd0AK0_I0245cLPQSUIm66z_UePBPfoK0TH0bQSCYffbRrwrVwlwP1CTKYtGOY2yXn0bib6qaRwmLVXrckA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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All of you wonderful people have chipped in to make this project go. I can not wate to make each and every shoe that has gone into funding this project. </div>Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-52960940316852376492012-08-09T16:11:00.000-07:002012-08-09T16:11:06.175-07:00New Bootie<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here is a new Bootie that is an option at $ 150.00 pledge level. The upper is stitched to a leather sole and nailed to a rooden heel with a leather pad. Pictured here in a dark green. I have a limited amount of leather this color. So, only one pair will be issued in the green. Other color options without limit are white, black, grey, chestut, and natural leather.</div>
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Right now the project has 45 hours to go. We are $1,215.00 shy of making the goal. I like to think that I'm an optimist. Please spread the word. If eight more people pledge $ 150 or more we can make it. Thank you to everyone who has helped out so far.</div>
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Elske is a Danish word meaning love. I felt it an appropriate name since so much love goes into this work. But, it also matches the spirit of the last few weeks. Thanks for the love and support.</div>
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<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-27470357271004253922012-08-08T10:30:00.000-07:002012-08-08T10:30:00.217-07:003 days to go<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We're getting close to the funding date for Elske Project. 3 days left. Please help spread the word.Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-39883319526959235052012-08-07T13:29:00.001-07:002012-08-07T13:32:04.219-07:00Tools<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Japanese Skife. This is one of my favorite tools. It is highly versatile. While it is called a skife, I rarely use it as a skife. I use it to cut patterns, to create grooves in which I recess sole stitching. I use it to trim flush excess sole material. as with all cutting tools, it's important to keep it sharp. I devote a fair amount of time ot maintaining my tools. Anyone committed to working with leather using hand tools should invest in good set of wet stones and a strop. As well, take the time to learn the art of sharpening tools. For me, sharpening tools is meditative. It does not take long to do. And, it is yet another way for one to use their hands to work with tools. The more I work with my tools, the more I feel like they are an extension of me.<br />
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My Japanese Skife</div>
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<u>Punches</u></div>
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The activity that consumes the most time and energy in the process of shoe making is stitching. Stitching is comprised of two stages, punching and threading. I come from a woodworking back ground. In many ways working with wood and leather are very similar. Some of the oldest structures in Japan are made of wood. The reason these structures have lasted so long has much to do with the way in which their builders built the structures. These structures are primarily joined together rather than being nailed together. The process of joining has many variations. But, simply put, when we join wood we make a space in on piece of wood that fits another piece of wood. Like a puzzle or a key, two pieces of wood join together in a way that does not cause undue stress on the wood. When we drive a nail into a piece of wood, we are forcing apart its fibers. That in itself is damage in the structure.</div>
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I take the same approach with leather. A stitch canot simply bedriven through a piece of leather. Doing so will stress the leather and cause tearing and eventual breakdown of the piece one is trying to build. So it is important to punch out every hole before picking up the needle and thread.</div>
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Hand stitching is an art. And, the result of hand stitching can be very beautiful. If you are interested in working with leather,I highly recommend devoting study to hand stitching. There is a book called <i>TheArt of Hand Stitching</i>, I will track down the author's information, and post it here.</div>
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My method is simple. First I use a stitch wheel to mark stitches (6 per inch.)</div>
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My stitch counter.</div>
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The stitch counter makes little dents in the leather spaced evenly. You can buy these wheels in different sizes to make different stitch spacing. The wheel allows you to simply drawout your stitch line. The result is even across curves and straight lines. </div>
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The next step is to punch holes. I use diamond punches (diamond referes to the shape of the whole.) One punch has four tines. These are spaced to match my stitch counter. I also have a single tine diamond punch which allows me to follow markings on curves.</div>
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Four diamonds</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwQDX8hU1vczcfkj0BBW-Wkh4zby6HUu9s61DmZvSR36EaAxO7FOTp-ZEgtaf1047qqP1jiDAGWAnHKiUN1WYCyQOJhyphenhyphenEWSA0egNSa5XaDGsNzJiVwun0v-NfCzgo8Vdq0vC2OmJ4Gt0/s1600/DiamondPunch1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwQDX8hU1vczcfkj0BBW-Wkh4zby6HUu9s61DmZvSR36EaAxO7FOTp-ZEgtaf1047qqP1jiDAGWAnHKiUN1WYCyQOJhyphenhyphenEWSA0egNSa5XaDGsNzJiVwun0v-NfCzgo8Vdq0vC2OmJ4Gt0/s320/DiamondPunch1.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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One diamond.</div>
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Punching Diamonds.</div>
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When punching the leather, you will need a solid surface that can be punched into beneath the leather. I use a large piece of fir structural lumber. There are special mats that can be used. It is important to use material that will not damage your tools. I recommend using fir.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA79eE9QtyiHlSVfDhXTRHAzH4b6A9d149R4pmlIuspJPxUeddkeYoXfSFAwiK25o7HE2fudakO1Wpi95r43rK-K33EwYCB6WELub8PFVDR4s0SWgEXQy-yvM2n8_-hJiLIeyOK5pSX-Y/s1600/punchblock.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA79eE9QtyiHlSVfDhXTRHAzH4b6A9d149R4pmlIuspJPxUeddkeYoXfSFAwiK25o7HE2fudakO1Wpi95r43rK-K33EwYCB6WELub8PFVDR4s0SWgEXQy-yvM2n8_-hJiLIeyOK5pSX-Y/s320/punchblock.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Punch block.</div>
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Once I have punched out every marked stitch, I trace over the line with a marker tool. This is a steel tool that has a small rounded end. I dampen the leather slightly and apply pressure with the marker to make a slight recess for the stitches to sit in. </div>
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Marker</div>
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I use surgical needles that I buy from Oregon Leather for stitching. I use two needles. One needle at each end of my thread. I choose the length of thread by measuring the length of the line I will be stitching and multiplying by two and a half. If my stitch line will be 10 cm then my thread length will be (10 * 2.5 = 25cm.) </div>
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Quick lesson on stitching:</div>
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Bring the needle through the first hole from the nap side of the leather. Draw the thread through until the piece of leather is in the middle of the total length of the thread (the same length of thread should be on either side of the stitching piece.) Run the first needle through the second hole on the finished side. You should have both needles on the nap side now. Now use the other needle and bring it through the second hole on the nap side. You will now have one needle on each side of the leather. Carefully pull at both needles to make the stitch taught. Take the thread on the finished side and pull toward the bottom of the work. On the nap side pull the thread in the opposite direction (toward the top of the work.) Repeat these steps until you've completed your stitch line. </div>
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This post is really about my tools. I will do an expanded post about stitching soon.</div>
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Hammers!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQ5TeKBq8harHHsUlXwwerrkohpRnEMM6Rn_-e1B8mcgjRycxpwei8Nti_cIdR821u9SWJsfmLl34kcPKVLZrgPlINDXvq-V2wrfy4IYmrVoTV3gDjP7aWC692UWggGgrxXUR4dpmfP8/s1600/Sledge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQ5TeKBq8harHHsUlXwwerrkohpRnEMM6Rn_-e1B8mcgjRycxpwei8Nti_cIdR821u9SWJsfmLl34kcPKVLZrgPlINDXvq-V2wrfy4IYmrVoTV3gDjP7aWC692UWggGgrxXUR4dpmfP8/s320/Sledge.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My sledge hammer.</div>
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Hammers are essential. A sledge hammer is a great universal tool that gets used in my shop when I am glueing. After cement has set and pieces are stuck together one must hammer the pieces together to insure the cement bonds and air is forced out of the joint. I usemy sledged to drive most of my punching tools. I also use the sledge to hammer down stitches. I cover the stitches with a piece of scrap leather and tap down the stitches. Hammers don't work without having a solid work surface. So their counterparts are anvils. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bgT3nFpxAv-7T0mIjw5UBkpIf_P4l_VG0FOhB10lxEN6JxfYOoC8CZNGg4kTkqRorBsYPhv6Hk6SozIcD-sc02twehCMkUA5UE0Q3bCTDN_lZvvPHpzTUbxmUMlBtYVtJKbvyAA2AQE/s1600/TieAnvil.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bgT3nFpxAv-7T0mIjw5UBkpIf_P4l_VG0FOhB10lxEN6JxfYOoC8CZNGg4kTkqRorBsYPhv6Hk6SozIcD-sc02twehCMkUA5UE0Q3bCTDN_lZvvPHpzTUbxmUMlBtYVtJKbvyAA2AQE/s320/TieAnvil.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Railroad steel anvil.</div>
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Like many leatherworkers, I have a piece of steel rail from a railroad that I use as my go to anvil for most tasks. I use this when tapping stitches, or hammering glued pieces. It is a great general purpose anvil.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJcT6jC0g3vAhYfQBBcxuh3-ZbO9eK46-FyauMPOyP_obYcu4KWchoAGqypPfA14QwcwkP7G8Ccdjf4x3AZMyKBbXGjQjzkZk5x2A0hllaMEjDw51_bKyO0feyxQ9cJG8EHXq1Pupf6Y/s1600/tackhammer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJcT6jC0g3vAhYfQBBcxuh3-ZbO9eK46-FyauMPOyP_obYcu4KWchoAGqypPfA14QwcwkP7G8Ccdjf4x3AZMyKBbXGjQjzkZk5x2A0hllaMEjDw51_bKyO0feyxQ9cJG8EHXq1Pupf6Y/s320/tackhammer.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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My tack hammer.</div>
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I use my tack hammer to nail uppers to the last when I am lasting. One side is magnetic which helps hold nails. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-m1uHYuDG3AT59nu3KOvqQM8jJhMZhvkew1-31Q5s3p18iyT-8JjMnxRPW3NT0MCk_RtLPc1eiVtASSWvCv6q5XU7_1CwMEcBxfFpzR-89WumoZzblywyLVcUT3CcBzzcsz3vRZyvK2o/s1600/SledgeNoHandle.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-m1uHYuDG3AT59nu3KOvqQM8jJhMZhvkew1-31Q5s3p18iyT-8JjMnxRPW3NT0MCk_RtLPc1eiVtASSWvCv6q5XU7_1CwMEcBxfFpzR-89WumoZzblywyLVcUT3CcBzzcsz3vRZyvK2o/s320/SledgeNoHandle.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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No handle sledge.</div>
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I use this tool to set rivets and a handful of other tasks. It's a sledge hammer without a handle. It can function as a little anvil. It has a smooth face which helps when setting snaps and rivets.</div>
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Shoe Anvil Photo Here</div>
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The shoe anvil or jack stand is a great tool to use for attaching soles with glue. It has interchangeable pieces that correspond to shoe sizes. They are useful for attaching hardware in hard to get to pieces. It's an anvil that fits inside of the shoe. Very useful.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEo6-gE34TEiSIvlP92jneBn3LFaulwGsv03teb0S5eROo5tsD723HHZst3RSuskH5t9x-SRe8ybHg6BIDk3hUkUHI9gbbLB2h1cVpRo7HzYttW_gNxIRik8Bk3xwwJAedOcH9tOdsgc/s1600/cutterprofile.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEo6-gE34TEiSIvlP92jneBn3LFaulwGsv03teb0S5eROo5tsD723HHZst3RSuskH5t9x-SRe8ybHg6BIDk3hUkUHI9gbbLB2h1cVpRo7HzYttW_gNxIRik8Bk3xwwJAedOcH9tOdsgc/s320/cutterprofile.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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The 3-in-1</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikPMibIi5lo2UOP6mGXtsweATaNdcLxdHAiN48Ra9q_t4cs22BSRfB1N9wVoGka52kGhGRMzbkcM_l48hCZNN-RSmey1WSPOaaeIJMovwUjgptk2shPCdbNT-gvdqaY3CrcUnbd8qB20/s1600/cutter.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikPMibIi5lo2UOP6mGXtsweATaNdcLxdHAiN48Ra9q_t4cs22BSRfB1N9wVoGka52kGhGRMzbkcM_l48hCZNN-RSmey1WSPOaaeIJMovwUjgptk2shPCdbNT-gvdqaY3CrcUnbd8qB20/s320/cutter.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Again</div>
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My 3-in-1 does three jobs. One, it cuts through sole material with ease and precision. It also has a nice skiving option that I use to skive soles. I can also use it to press sole stitches. It really helps save time. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJy1YVuqZ8hcTfTueNkjPoaHU2dieG3vRwCYw-_WQlyMT0xYZj0B7krMkufEodIz9l98HtVDmWJ272d2zfGFbVXX-sSIc580liyHv2dB9mX7WCfu_CXIJXN5q4nvK8zvafhW95u_55D5k/s1600/Cutterdetail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJy1YVuqZ8hcTfTueNkjPoaHU2dieG3vRwCYw-_WQlyMT0xYZj0B7krMkufEodIz9l98HtVDmWJ272d2zfGFbVXX-sSIc580liyHv2dB9mX7WCfu_CXIJXN5q4nvK8zvafhW95u_55D5k/s320/Cutterdetail.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Skiver on the 3-in-1</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLetPNcXb43HKbUMG2-An97zOS0b7kZmYxcFPF3Fd1W38uv0ovmw4qFC_-wdtJeCL9X_2Qk8yX-aSqff8OjesruGcTWvYZGu5sM96dS2DhCRxVuwdC2Y2C1I3-V1rUGptqCcFmhW4CLOo/s1600/Edger.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLetPNcXb43HKbUMG2-An97zOS0b7kZmYxcFPF3Fd1W38uv0ovmw4qFC_-wdtJeCL9X_2Qk8yX-aSqff8OjesruGcTWvYZGu5sM96dS2DhCRxVuwdC2Y2C1I3-V1rUGptqCcFmhW4CLOo/s320/Edger.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Edger.</div>
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Edgers come in a few sizes. I recommend having one of each. It's also important to keep these sharpened. You can purchase a special strop that is shaped to match their blades. These tools are invaluable when they are sharp. They will frustrate and ruin your work if they are not sharpened. I use the edger to trim and bevel excess leather - usually above stitched lines. They are very useful for flush trimming rubber mid-soles. </div>
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more soon....</div>
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<br /></div>Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-5487043454991057972012-08-06T11:57:00.000-07:002012-08-06T11:57:36.669-07:00Elske Heart<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4kKPXB-jMtEcLw_-eyn53HtyXeaTaktwyTtu035fvfc8hpXnOdTs5T56KzyRTELxmmgJl5yeeCYbpzkorYh6bBwIk3tPdeF4OyzUYRvljj5sfkWvNj2Tc2BuPcRHVCtJ6sbrkKqPfNo/s1600/ElskeHeartFloral.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4kKPXB-jMtEcLw_-eyn53HtyXeaTaktwyTtu035fvfc8hpXnOdTs5T56KzyRTELxmmgJl5yeeCYbpzkorYh6bBwIk3tPdeF4OyzUYRvljj5sfkWvNj2Tc2BuPcRHVCtJ6sbrkKqPfNo/s320/ElskeHeartFloral.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-51010938937412011842012-08-06T11:24:00.000-07:002012-08-06T11:24:00.161-07:00Pictures of shoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
This is my standard Unisex Oxford. I wear this shoe everyday. The leather upper is stitched to the leather sole. All in all this shoe has about 250 hand placed stitches. There is a rubber outsole to protect the sole stitches from the rigors of walking. The outsole can be a thin smooth rubber in black or white. A thicker chevron sole is another option. The chevronis a little bulkier but provides good traction.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigooO-2AlII7prYQbiI0fLju12-9gohvFk9_t5JQfpcbN6rUi7ORDwGTnXtkhW5RdA2HDzjKSksnrynR4VDBk6y3R8IqSZaJR18DyPVOHp3gScpQBZrJ1SMyj9eOT7F7cu0xztYjtyno/s1600/OxfordUnise2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigooO-2AlII7prYQbiI0fLju12-9gohvFk9_t5JQfpcbN6rUi7ORDwGTnXtkhW5RdA2HDzjKSksnrynR4VDBk6y3R8IqSZaJR18DyPVOHp3gScpQBZrJ1SMyj9eOT7F7cu0xztYjtyno/s320/OxfordUnise2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Color options are black, white, grey, chestnut, and natural leather. These shoes are hand burnished to provide a beautiful finish. Ample conditioning and attention makes the leather quite comfortable upon removal from the box. Over time theywill become softer. But, the structure will maintain its integrity. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdhEea7mqR6oTF5DzPp16LE3apiA9MdtpoyNXYxHc5F5SvvsQBqNkVmmd0aq06nH8VCOPAu5yk5Rebz3alsVYs4ubD9WhgGGdivetYiWYmEdaBHMfc_zbDAkG4cUIOb66HkoZVOTWook/s1600/OxfordUnisex1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdhEea7mqR6oTF5DzPp16LE3apiA9MdtpoyNXYxHc5F5SvvsQBqNkVmmd0aq06nH8VCOPAu5yk5Rebz3alsVYs4ubD9WhgGGdivetYiWYmEdaBHMfc_zbDAkG4cUIOb66HkoZVOTWook/s320/OxfordUnisex1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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These shoes is tolerant of much abuse. But, devoting a little time to maintenance every so often will greatly extend their lives.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMC9ma3sMzFx8hoBSb9Dc2y4xiECVO8SfBsD7_171Pb3I9QAgSm1UaPHz-mdmVGWZ5a2r_rPdBJwn9OJUUOdIi6xPZWcrajOGOmXM4jm6C7o5SpSs16xvMDqWhwo7vYiFbriZsgH-9t6A/s1600/OXlineFem1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMC9ma3sMzFx8hoBSb9Dc2y4xiECVO8SfBsD7_171Pb3I9QAgSm1UaPHz-mdmVGWZ5a2r_rPdBJwn9OJUUOdIi6xPZWcrajOGOmXM4jm6C7o5SpSs16xvMDqWhwo7vYiFbriZsgH-9t6A/s320/OXlineFem1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Female Oxford Line Boot in grey. The leather upper is stitched to the leather sole. Sole stitches are partially covered by rubber a rubber outsole. Thin rubber outsole or thicker chevron sole (pictured) available white or black. Leather sole is natural leather color (with clear coat.) Upper color options : White,Grey,Black, Chestnut, and Natural.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JzHBxXXD1sG45d6BrGsU5jCyzgihx54qF75atXBG2ga0S7WtXQuGbZY9DxnWsDftPomC4Ntz8ayujPixj8JDh935dBm1t9NneNhK7PSw5qVb642e9igNftP7-snBSSke2FwbIaw94QU/s1600/IMG_2671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JzHBxXXD1sG45d6BrGsU5jCyzgihx54qF75atXBG2ga0S7WtXQuGbZY9DxnWsDftPomC4Ntz8ayujPixj8JDh935dBm1t9NneNhK7PSw5qVb642e9igNftP7-snBSSke2FwbIaw94QU/s320/IMG_2671.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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The Futbol Boot. This is a unisex boot. Available in Black, grey, white, chestnut, or natural leather color. Hand stitched upper is stitched to leather sole with rubber outsole to cover stitches. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Yk9ny5JQEnqM-eBH0n7aOGADjg_Au7M4YshgI1dl79h-htTFi5UUs_HkyNekoCSVn2sQUD3Djt89yP596O99Vft_kYnUXDOSbqDBN8STB-50JvFXZ7GErRnwa9AzSu1aUjiMakTItug/s1600/IMG_2672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Yk9ny5JQEnqM-eBH0n7aOGADjg_Au7M4YshgI1dl79h-htTFi5UUs_HkyNekoCSVn2sQUD3Djt89yP596O99Vft_kYnUXDOSbqDBN8STB-50JvFXZ7GErRnwa9AzSu1aUjiMakTItug/s320/IMG_2672.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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More photos will be posted of this boot soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2QN29daN3nGlU-hOYIB0cotI50Q5bMyw1GoO3oHVvXftZBG63elYsvQF8LMdkpyjx9vRce61g9ff7J_V1p34quKqYqAFfq3SphUU5Y1CXDrUyjCCBKFOqcL83Pbq1qc3Wp4ZPy4b_O_c/s1600/BalletFlat2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2QN29daN3nGlU-hOYIB0cotI50Q5bMyw1GoO3oHVvXftZBG63elYsvQF8LMdkpyjx9vRce61g9ff7J_V1p34quKqYqAFfq3SphUU5Y1CXDrUyjCCBKFOqcL83Pbq1qc3Wp4ZPy4b_O_c/s320/BalletFlat2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A simple Ballet flat. Available in black, grey, white, chestnut, or natural. The leather upper is stitched to a soft leather sole which is covered by a thin rubber outsole. The flat is very soft, yet maintains its shape. The toe and heel are lined. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBJqZNeGHU1EC9AT5w3J7NjWpBViUmRJ-pWnbujMxmcqL2cQYQMGTABnXgopOJC98dhLqPhmUylYiFaMIKV3SalCTWQMrsqsiUV6PvwXQIoNi9uDY00G59E7VGRUZBSlT6LiHzyDFyjE/s1600/BalletFlat1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBJqZNeGHU1EC9AT5w3J7NjWpBViUmRJ-pWnbujMxmcqL2cQYQMGTABnXgopOJC98dhLqPhmUylYiFaMIKV3SalCTWQMrsqsiUV6PvwXQIoNi9uDY00G59E7VGRUZBSlT6LiHzyDFyjE/s320/BalletFlat1.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Baseball stitching on the instep provides a nice detail. </div>
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<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-51409970582731449552012-08-01T14:51:00.001-07:002012-08-01T14:55:06.351-07:00Some guidance for the sizing chartIf you don't already have it, download and print the sizing chart here:<br />
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4YACtkHsH8xTjZUQmNCV3RWTE0/edit?pli=1">Elske Sizing Chart by Donovan</a><br />
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Important: when you print this off be sure to uncheck the 'fit to page' box. The chart needs to be printed at 100% so that it is accurate.</div>
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Once printed take one of the pages (it does not matter which) and fold along the top most line (above the horizontal numbers) so that the top space is folded behind the printed side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-A0iJtNsWLIu8tiqmr3TGK664RE_-N6EL2Ijb6Vy0ph5FtzHVbCcEZXGoLqC8t0qmYUl6p_r6kyM6ysBbaYjbJyw6r7GDwEXTtgFUtfWxB8_xSRW7tXZwqK2a-n9gvKkoMNTGegSBwBQ/s1600/PointToFold.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-A0iJtNsWLIu8tiqmr3TGK664RE_-N6EL2Ijb6Vy0ph5FtzHVbCcEZXGoLqC8t0qmYUl6p_r6kyM6ysBbaYjbJyw6r7GDwEXTtgFUtfWxB8_xSRW7tXZwqK2a-n9gvKkoMNTGegSBwBQ/s320/PointToFold.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Turn the page upside down. Match the fold to the top line on the other page. Tape in place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9QxOMEEuxMTGrfiAa3JCBrw-RHly2s8wDuURTFW13CyzyhFqVfBmDmE72tckrV_kiBSu1u0gosT_lRm_q8cAm5WHmCfP5sMS35jlqazXXNIaWXKvbDKyzu7a4CcG2vJ_505zA5kJoa0/s1600/SplicedChart.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9QxOMEEuxMTGrfiAa3JCBrw-RHly2s8wDuURTFW13CyzyhFqVfBmDmE72tckrV_kiBSu1u0gosT_lRm_q8cAm5WHmCfP5sMS35jlqazXXNIaWXKvbDKyzu7a4CcG2vJ_505zA5kJoa0/s320/SplicedChart.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove shoes. Wear socks. Also, it is best to do the chart after you've gone about your normal business for the day. Midday to evening is a good time. Unless your day begins in the evening. Its important that your feet have been relatively active in the way that they are during your usual routine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6XCQAd6uwr0COVFhbx51hkqd-hfvr6ANWudnEdBQor4HAwuR7QyAVDCuHE13yTSqo41F7LP7q_U6xHE0UBEWxqx6IW6YA5f_jyShNMYEXajzg-jLuNZ4VALh4jxcT2AeysNEppmIdvU/s1600/ShoeOff.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6XCQAd6uwr0COVFhbx51hkqd-hfvr6ANWudnEdBQor4HAwuR7QyAVDCuHE13yTSqo41F7LP7q_U6xHE0UBEWxqx6IW6YA5f_jyShNMYEXajzg-jLuNZ4VALh4jxcT2AeysNEppmIdvU/s320/ShoeOff.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Place on the floor lengthwise. The lines that extend to the bottom of the page indicate which foot to measure. If the lines are concentrated on the left, measure the left foot. If concentrated on the right, measure the right foot. You will want to have the back of your heel placed against the horizontal bold line. Use a straight edge placed perpendicular to this line. Place the back of your heel against it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0aiqPNe856RzLw14_ozJOy4nT0lQbTzHjtnSi3Y4SSJE_NPqHwcFunLpnwJVZ3EDi-urBeW-7UldeZrrTitAUxHvFOwr6Lbh0s9wd3mS2hyphenhyphen-5vQo_aVap8mJzIV9KsldYs1BzRFqbPpU/s1600/StraightEdge.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0aiqPNe856RzLw14_ozJOy4nT0lQbTzHjtnSi3Y4SSJE_NPqHwcFunLpnwJVZ3EDi-urBeW-7UldeZrrTitAUxHvFOwr6Lbh0s9wd3mS2hyphenhyphen-5vQo_aVap8mJzIV9KsldYs1BzRFqbPpU/s320/StraightEdge.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bold central line should be centered at the back your heel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfr2Qxsk8UPY3mf4GRemhdtmpSLj7FhyphenhyphenIejM84B3vNX51VMRPZO0rhss6b_AQcQATHk8Ygy7yDIuypemkwemuYuslyKDVLEhW37fLXU_YlGg_K2r1pJRy8G85br_as5Ge1Mh1y0iMZLWc/s1600/PointToHeel.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfr2Qxsk8UPY3mf4GRemhdtmpSLj7FhyphenhyphenIejM84B3vNX51VMRPZO0rhss6b_AQcQATHk8Ygy7yDIuypemkwemuYuslyKDVLEhW37fLXU_YlGg_K2r1pJRy8G85br_as5Ge1Mh1y0iMZLWc/s320/PointToHeel.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bold center line should extend through the center of your big toe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEc720Gk1dguRjRos9RpAR9BF2cxq4WXQckIMOARPXUtph5GwRk7RwsMW9BTs5ytUrYG3XAGVEX57vexyXJRkxD0AgViJUQIfJ6tcFHUTtgA3tEWuGUwZBs9Kh2WSCvmn0DUV4qbqT3c/s1600/PointtoToe.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEc720Gk1dguRjRos9RpAR9BF2cxq4WXQckIMOARPXUtph5GwRk7RwsMW9BTs5ytUrYG3XAGVEX57vexyXJRkxD0AgViJUQIfJ6tcFHUTtgA3tEWuGUwZBs9Kh2WSCvmn0DUV4qbqT3c/s320/PointtoToe.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, holding a pencil perpendicular to the chart, mark where the big toe ends.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgVRVF-wiwOTVohitIBXmwwUa6IwQsizBCQS89KgXE5rpYf5UG5Wy-JaEUc3ASPO6BcVikTTaF7fUFXNgx1dmm-fIUVdu-6wf42Ir8WtsoLtwMkII5ZgmAFsGzhyphenhyphenHlvBm2cAcqhesHYw/s1600/MarkToe.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgVRVF-wiwOTVohitIBXmwwUa6IwQsizBCQS89KgXE5rpYf5UG5Wy-JaEUc3ASPO6BcVikTTaF7fUFXNgx1dmm-fIUVdu-6wf42Ir8WtsoLtwMkII5ZgmAFsGzhyphenhyphenHlvBm2cAcqhesHYw/s320/MarkToe.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Without changing the position of your foot. Mark both sides of your foot at its widest point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwhQqLWJrNUzObdhCmmnworbVKnV4uLnk-mMeALPuF90hIQqPZ678vEQO-zmy2Aos7xgWQVr8frJL4xx3xRBqi_6EFm6cRjFgGiTAo4eU1hWr8hltKUR9q1XukqesBvu8yala1jlgUQc/s1600/MarkWide.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwhQqLWJrNUzObdhCmmnworbVKnV4uLnk-mMeALPuF90hIQqPZ678vEQO-zmy2Aos7xgWQVr8frJL4xx3xRBqi_6EFm6cRjFgGiTAo4eU1hWr8hltKUR9q1XukqesBvu8yala1jlgUQc/s320/MarkWide.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc5lp1ATJG6s-0jwwMYFv0j59_GoAb3u-idhC5ADQa_VS0xrwkSs85Ro6enNQ4wQRnZJDjWfDxW7PnCAT_GfgSjxuEasHaNvwZUy2DEsr1J1NlMQmlzVB-zJk1w80LxvVw0GjdTnIOzyE/s1600/MarkNarrow.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc5lp1ATJG6s-0jwwMYFv0j59_GoAb3u-idhC5ADQa_VS0xrwkSs85Ro6enNQ4wQRnZJDjWfDxW7PnCAT_GfgSjxuEasHaNvwZUy2DEsr1J1NlMQmlzVB-zJk1w80LxvVw0GjdTnIOzyE/s320/MarkNarrow.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove your foot. Using a straight edge. Trace vertical lines from the foot width points to the numbers in the horizontal row in the middle of the chart.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNlIiGl34VoNTlhYo0eiWMhhsMGmBwSsI7lnrb3VmKjwalHJjJkPdEGmfJcCegGKQiOkoXZ11y8IaHkte9ubRhLMccAJGVJQaO8yi-UeMMm4EUlkEWdv_TmLL0kwktT8OUn98LV1kqouU/s1600/AlignMark2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNlIiGl34VoNTlhYo0eiWMhhsMGmBwSsI7lnrb3VmKjwalHJjJkPdEGmfJcCegGKQiOkoXZ11y8IaHkte9ubRhLMccAJGVJQaO8yi-UeMMm4EUlkEWdv_TmLL0kwktT8OUn98LV1kqouU/s320/AlignMark2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdE49Zsvo0FFfvlzuCUlPL8ORU7HUSrRPNy5i5p421f69T0j1fJLPyGMQggcpno3zO2A5cHD0c-lD7BEJa4WVmbQHHJz5n-KXmQ9qvlV3E2LstHlSaLPSRs3C1-UpK8B94kkFulqjvlZ0/s1600/AlignMark3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdE49Zsvo0FFfvlzuCUlPL8ORU7HUSrRPNy5i5p421f69T0j1fJLPyGMQggcpno3zO2A5cHD0c-lD7BEJa4WVmbQHHJz5n-KXmQ9qvlV3E2LstHlSaLPSRs3C1-UpK8B94kkFulqjvlZ0/s320/AlignMark3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Use a straight edge and create a horizontal line that extends toward the numbers in the vertical column at the edge of the chart.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtL5HGZqTyWCV1cTKSLe4OlhyphenhyphendbYOrBHKwdw4KFocdHPRdDZ0uP-eWF6IML0HnXDCGMjC92fvbEyId31_0BAQx10-HhkmOG7nGc4zfWRDPH-figMPf5bIvQIa26JcQrNhTw-huN9vM7eM/s1600/AlignMark1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtL5HGZqTyWCV1cTKSLe4OlhyphenhyphendbYOrBHKwdw4KFocdHPRdDZ0uP-eWF6IML0HnXDCGMjC92fvbEyId31_0BAQx10-HhkmOG7nGc4zfWRDPH-figMPf5bIvQIa26JcQrNhTw-huN9vM7eM/s320/AlignMark1.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now make note of the numbers. When you send me this information I'd like it formatted in the following manner: Right/Left foot , Length, Width number to the left of the bold central line, Width number to the right of the bold central line. </div>
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Special notes: </div>
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Length: If the length line falls anywhere in between two numbers, choose the higher number. Never round down. Do not approximate the decimal. Numbers correspond to the line below them.</div>
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Width: Each of the small increments on the width gauge is .2. So, if you find that a width mark falls two lines beyond the 3, you'd record 3.4. Numbers increase as they go away from the central line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoX9PJlaHpued7J9ArbsNUoj-IEy4h2-bGYQJYVr3TXNsK2x1DOpfVdQcPN14OhdWZnD6i1R0nOTXUaYA3DCKP2IPhj5OmCSk0QyZohA4Np0S9qrQqlFirFmiJxsLjf4aIGKvsODY5A8/s1600/PointLengthNo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoX9PJlaHpued7J9ArbsNUoj-IEy4h2-bGYQJYVr3TXNsK2x1DOpfVdQcPN14OhdWZnD6i1R0nOTXUaYA3DCKP2IPhj5OmCSk0QyZohA4Np0S9qrQqlFirFmiJxsLjf4aIGKvsODY5A8/s320/PointLengthNo.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
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Rotate the chart and repeat the steps for the other foot.</div>
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<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-77442839855542212402012-08-01T06:47:00.001-07:002012-08-01T06:52:02.426-07:00Elske project is more than half way to its funding goalA very special thank you to Michele Alonzo for her pledge which put the Elske Project across the half way mark toward its funding goal. Of course, thank you to everyone who has pledged and helped to spread the word. I am very excited to get to work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwP5fvcKZT4QlOY_x17CwOcU4it4D_8JozCAH9Ivymz6ka008pog5t-BrfrZtB4EwhMlZ3UVT8K45PxtCAB4vi6ysVsl_pR5sdwmenqZDbAEqC3yBf_y1ibts9bg7DlictG3C6ew18dc/s1600/IMG_2399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwP5fvcKZT4QlOY_x17CwOcU4it4D_8JozCAH9Ivymz6ka008pog5t-BrfrZtB4EwhMlZ3UVT8K45PxtCAB4vi6ysVsl_pR5sdwmenqZDbAEqC3yBf_y1ibts9bg7DlictG3C6ew18dc/s400/IMG_2399.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-52918610892791102062012-07-29T19:28:00.000-07:002012-07-29T19:28:08.518-07:00New design<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkZpBFjOeS-3lYffhIoIDhNqgcz97LrC-3JS9MXmhpCYm7b3s1wIp8UnsIR-RgEh6sqZvhezmi0kyBhTmJaMuuoper0qO9iaebbAFyHpPgBt1B3_NHBhyuL6TbZPiIjsHQF14jaxCxno/s1600/FemOxford.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkZpBFjOeS-3lYffhIoIDhNqgcz97LrC-3JS9MXmhpCYm7b3s1wIp8UnsIR-RgEh6sqZvhezmi0kyBhTmJaMuuoper0qO9iaebbAFyHpPgBt1B3_NHBhyuL6TbZPiIjsHQF14jaxCxno/s320/FemOxford.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's a sketch of the female oxford with greater toe exposure and no grommets. All shoes will have the same Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQcMfvmbaA1YtwKS-keUCRIuYAt2NwzAabGd1NGR-ncjV-CGJF5Bi67kmnFyL51oz6EeH30jv7uT2N30NWEQGcYKOzBdN4QxPF0GeHhS-wv6QeRISbcHEyV2IhUwkH3JsmVlB1xEUdSM/s1600/IMG_2501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQcMfvmbaA1YtwKS-keUCRIuYAt2NwzAabGd1NGR-ncjV-CGJF5Bi67kmnFyL51oz6EeH30jv7uT2N30NWEQGcYKOzBdN4QxPF0GeHhS-wv6QeRISbcHEyV2IhUwkH3JsmVlB1xEUdSM/s400/IMG_2501.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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Here are my personal oxfords. This is the same design I am making in the Kickstarter video. These are quite old and abused. I am offering this style for both men and women. <span style="background-color: white;">Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjP2Qv9hndbAawETliPNOkB99h4RZmZ4CYMu211Hbtww2pf0JiZRyjR1oMEydn4fhpDWdFw2eyhrVHz0m1pzDWH3tAAzCLfygCnlsN-A0flnkgN1p1kBZwsoj6uMlp004CoRow-8m4PM/s1600/IMG_2503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjP2Qv9hndbAawETliPNOkB99h4RZmZ4CYMu211Hbtww2pf0JiZRyjR1oMEydn4fhpDWdFw2eyhrVHz0m1pzDWH3tAAzCLfygCnlsN-A0flnkgN1p1kBZwsoj6uMlp004CoRow-8m4PM/s400/IMG_2503.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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There is also a version of these offered without grommets. In that model, the holes are punched and slightly closer together. I will continue to post sketches and proto types as they are built. <span style="background-color: white;">Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79twx_3iUMJHF6TTBYGLFUZK_MraVtTmIl0-rPMVslxmVBhGcWf6bZXPhtG5ZP62Zj4nqXSnx6QGeN8J9D2z7YUHjITZkq11cEBbm1DkoJQYlWZJUhyphenhyphenZbV3ehX-FCoF2rqwoZYAy-8yk/s1600/IMG_2505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79twx_3iUMJHF6TTBYGLFUZK_MraVtTmIl0-rPMVslxmVBhGcWf6bZXPhtG5ZP62Zj4nqXSnx6QGeN8J9D2z7YUHjITZkq11cEBbm1DkoJQYlWZJUhyphenhyphenZbV3ehX-FCoF2rqwoZYAy-8yk/s400/IMG_2505.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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The heel on these and all of the designs is minimal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3WcUxGMNG5cVlKT1IGDi2u7fp3q1EvqWsV7QKdLKkAH7zFNNejYiIOQ_m_FhkfXt2dIBMyWzfJwF4TpGMP7Tnr9JnLLnzeXJrXswUMxPY8he10VoZFEH25HAQb3EuWtIR_IMHTKmziUg/s1600/FutbolBoot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3WcUxGMNG5cVlKT1IGDi2u7fp3q1EvqWsV7QKdLKkAH7zFNNejYiIOQ_m_FhkfXt2dIBMyWzfJwF4TpGMP7Tnr9JnLLnzeXJrXswUMxPY8he10VoZFEH25HAQb3EuWtIR_IMHTKmziUg/s320/FutbolBoot.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a sketch of the Futbol Boot. Ankle high with a pull tab. There is a slight angle both in the heel line and the back of the angle. Subtle, but necessary. <span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFFgRxwsz4jIZ9SFYNGnW7tVUmRqgf11JD3o4UQe4xywgb8QwtZuIplejq7DaGLBUnw0WcNhezNAIlK6JEtDJxi0acDVGqGVeZnFKjjNBURaWFS8184Eku5OiEGfEGzAsEs0DbI50-fU/s1600/Mule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFFgRxwsz4jIZ9SFYNGnW7tVUmRqgf11JD3o4UQe4xywgb8QwtZuIplejq7DaGLBUnw0WcNhezNAIlK6JEtDJxi0acDVGqGVeZnFKjjNBURaWFS8184Eku5OiEGfEGzAsEs0DbI50-fU/s320/Mule.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a sketch of the Mule. <span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipY7AwTGAs4xJm61kbSfZdDIVjsT4Cn9zIsvRfUbABEikY595uqoDJs4BTyaE61kT9obVwVl070MYLhp-Ky-4yEkXyYIMQ4RRnniN9hhG-4O0OCETOyfFeFZMCylk_bcA2MQw0yIYXPhE/s1600/TallOxfBoot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipY7AwTGAs4xJm61kbSfZdDIVjsT4Cn9zIsvRfUbABEikY595uqoDJs4BTyaE61kT9obVwVl070MYLhp-Ky-4yEkXyYIMQ4RRnniN9hhG-4O0OCETOyfFeFZMCylk_bcA2MQw0yIYXPhE/s320/TallOxfBoot.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Sketch of the Oxford line version of the ankle boot. For men and women. </span><span style="background-color: white;">Color options: White, Pale Gray, Black, Chestnut Brown, and Natural Leather tinted slightly with Linseed oil.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQFgw7gFi4I05kYK7cfswkrMWY3sA_P4keb3PA70v_5DxyxPKiCvPtDLzejyHY6-w31nNCn_NGyiCOevslGksgE0rlpqEZ9bkx7bSqvQng1SbtKLrc5YapuvAXeRW0yS8JplyeU_QndQ/s1600/gatorcomp.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQFgw7gFi4I05kYK7cfswkrMWY3sA_P4keb3PA70v_5DxyxPKiCvPtDLzejyHY6-w31nNCn_NGyiCOevslGksgE0rlpqEZ9bkx7bSqvQng1SbtKLrc5YapuvAXeRW0yS8JplyeU_QndQ/s320/gatorcomp.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Detail of line variations.</div>
<br />Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-53196932395657122102012-07-28T19:14:00.001-07:002012-07-28T19:14:23.596-07:00Talking and talking about aesthetics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzagVKH8KsJf908MJyaSyc3cljaqIHRVnZQovR9AqduBli4Z880YGURrxxkTobsY-obXx69YZayFacVXoU' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
Here I am talking about design and the sort of goals I have with the shoes that will come out of the project.Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-79461428453202708012012-07-28T17:51:00.002-07:002012-07-28T19:06:00.812-07:00Some old work<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxpWkRkebIJvlQIkk4TlY7hbfRwxQiq9nFchP-nQSk-9sLt5jKPjhlb7eY44Ew7qj6mPGhZOoq_2GGFHj5q' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
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Here's a montage of shoes I've made in the past. </div>Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-2583115172683992962012-07-27T12:21:00.001-07:002012-07-27T15:33:38.603-07:00Making<br />
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I made this video over a two day period to show some of the process of shoe making in my shop. Normally, I make shoes in pairs. I threw this together as a way to attach a visual sense of what I do and where I do it. As the project moves forward I will expand and clarify the stages of the process. While, this is a representation of some of my work, when I talk about the elegant process that I want to show with this project, I am talking about laying out an entire process that is formed of small steps and stations. Last shaping, pattern making, pattern cutting, dying, stitching, installing hardware, lasting, glueing, burnishing, insole scheme, et al. Despite being the result of numerous processes, a pair of shoes can be made in a total of two hours of physical labor, with each pair requiring twenty four hours to dry and rest. This efficiency is achieved without sacrificing quality. There are no corners cut. An average Oxford that I produce contains 240 stitches in the upper. Soles are stitched to uppers. Renia cement is used to glue the rubber outsole that will protect the sole stitches from the rigors of walking. This step greatly extends the life of the shoe and will prevent costly sole replacement. (It's much cheaper to have a cobbler glue a new piece of rubber outsole on the original leather sole than to have one stitch a new leather sole to your upper.) Uppers and liners are conditioned throughout the process to maintain their strength as well as their pliability. The result is a beautiful finish and comfort. I make shoes for my family, friends, and for people who see my shoes and make inquiries. My shoes are made with love.</div>Elskehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07801312455685493203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3109738088368320182.post-72078133476098662142012-07-15T14:04:00.002-07:002012-07-27T13:37:33.955-07:00Elske Project<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Elske, Lille Elske is a project. Theaim of which is to
demonstrate an elegant system of production that bears beautiful shoes for men
and women of remarkable quality. From the shaping of the last, to the stitching
of the soles, to the burnish of the leather our hands use about eighteen tools
(none of which are mechanized) to produce shoes. We are proud of what we make.
We love what we do.</div>
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People are valuable. Yet, very often society demonstrates a
lack of willingness to value individuals. The many things we love and need to
own are produced by people, somewhere. Though industry can place a fixed price
on material and machinery it has always sought to vary the price of labor to be
a smaller and smaller percentage of cost. Devaluing humans creates a desperate
and depressed class of people. That class of people is becoming the largest
component of our population</div>
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I have devoted thought to this for most of my adult life.
And, through trial and error, analysis, and practice, I have designed a system
of production that demonstrates the reality that high quality goods can be
produced in a way that is not cost prohibitive. The work that I do in my shop
is not overly taxing in expansion of time, energy, or resources. Designing the
system while devoting thought to the needs of individuals, consumers, and
manufacturers to create a balanced system that actually works has led me to adopt a combination of traditional techniques with modern ones. The result is a
high quality, beautiful shoe that is produced by artisans in surprisingly short
amount of time.<br />
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Analysis of costs reveal that profit can be achieved while providing a living wage to laborers, and still bringing to market a competitive product. I am not in a position to start a business now. But, I believe it is of great importance to demonstrate that this system can work in the U.S. Thus, Elske project will produce a fully documented demonstration over the next few months. The project will design and produce ten pair of shoes from scratch to perfection using our elegant system of production. The shoes are important, but the point of this project is to show in detail the process and its feasibility to work as an efficient mode of production.</div>
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You may ask, if this system is so efficient, then why will
it take months to demonstrate the production of ten pair of shoes? The answer
is that it does not take more than two days to produce a hand-made pair of shoes.
And, when the system is in full swing, many shoes can be produced daily. But,
it is in our effort to document the process and raise the funds to publish,
exhibit, and otherwise record the effort that we are projecting a multi-month
timeline. To help in the effort please look us up on Kickstarter.com withe link below. Check
back here for photographs, posts, and updates.</div>
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<a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/572917813/proof-that-high-quality-goods-can-be-produced-by-h" style="border: 0px; color: #1071d1; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'Liberation Sans', FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font: inherit; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/572917813/proof-that-high-quality-goods-can-be-produced-by-h</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVawaU6NUJRU3bHfNl7DAlVsCdloSxC-B2j3sYwMSjrdDeizW4grxW0oLT9bBcWbCFURNLN_UxTMaZKv3V5Vt_I142jrkSMB1BxnvCxGE0b4ZW075yPZRxwi_U06gICvqwwwCSJJpjHk/s1600/IMG_2259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVawaU6NUJRU3bHfNl7DAlVsCdloSxC-B2j3sYwMSjrdDeizW4grxW0oLT9bBcWbCFURNLN_UxTMaZKv3V5Vt_I142jrkSMB1BxnvCxGE0b4ZW075yPZRxwi_U06gICvqwwwCSJJpjHk/s320/IMG_2259.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCw9sVDnvaj4hAKDcKxMJVaoorzEnkrTGyVvOYZSMFmBcHHKn6yfNqdInZDQbAeWwa0oqO-POW4gPvXVw7SdKKTpX8LJds3PodrkciFUPmzHZoaVNE4J2RMhOsE6TCusUP61wLYhe2ru4/s1600/IMG_2304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCw9sVDnvaj4hAKDcKxMJVaoorzEnkrTGyVvOYZSMFmBcHHKn6yfNqdInZDQbAeWwa0oqO-POW4gPvXVw7SdKKTpX8LJds3PodrkciFUPmzHZoaVNE4J2RMhOsE6TCusUP61wLYhe2ru4/s320/IMG_2304.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRlRrydQ6klLUr8f7nrg102UeKbLMXaHxuM4tCpMm4n588nLaZh8iw1vtF7Gq3Cdp_eiM9B-_uiAgtrvQby5sDxvX-f1i-6axa6fvnECNw_3SHVyDrC3daHkxKod-owqsADIYqztbmsk/s1600/IMG_2266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRlRrydQ6klLUr8f7nrg102UeKbLMXaHxuM4tCpMm4n588nLaZh8iw1vtF7Gq3Cdp_eiM9B-_uiAgtrvQby5sDxvX-f1i-6axa6fvnECNw_3SHVyDrC3daHkxKod-owqsADIYqztbmsk/s320/IMG_2266.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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